You may wonder what to know when buying a used car? One of the best pieces of advice to follow before buying and Selling a used car is to do your homework. You probably have an idea about which kind of car you want to buy, i.e., the make and model, and whether you want a two-door or four-door. You also probably know whether you want a sedan, family car or pick-up, and what kind of gas mileage you need depending on how often and how far you travel for work and/or recreation.
Proper Cars for Cash Research is Important
Before you visit a dealership Midrand Cash For Vehicles , you’ll want to begin a web-search to check out everything about the vehicle(s) you want. You can even find recall lists on makes and models, saving you time and hassle. Check out current values at from trusted sites. Collect information from many sources, do you own research, then create a chart filled with information from various sources to compare the price. When you learn the current value of the vehicle(s) you are interested in, you give yourself negotiating power when interacting with a salesperson. Knowledge is power, and you never want to enter into a big decision-making process, especially where your money is involved, without being prepared. And always err on the side of caution. Selling used cars is a business, and they want your money.
Midrand Cash For Vehicles
If possible, try to buy your next used car from the previous owner. You can find these deals in your local paper and your neighborhood. Often times the previous owners might have spare paint, the instruction manual, even snow tires. Also, you can ask them questions about the car. The fewer owners the car has had, obviously, the better, and if you trust the previous owners, that’s a bonus. But keep in mind, if you’re not shopping locally and want to broaden your options, internet search is always a great option for you, just be sure to surf through trustworthy sources only. Internet is one of the powerful and free sources where you can seek out for used car buying tips and follow through with those tips and advice.
What to check when buying a used cars
You should definitely “check under the hood”, and make sure there is no structural damage from a previous accident or natural disaster, like a flood. Be sure that the odometer reading is accurate and has not been tampered with. Check the airbag to make sure that it is still in the car and that it has not been deployed. Pay a mechanic to inspect the car for you before you buy it. This is very important — have them check the brakes, engine, motor, radiator, muffler, and inside the body for any structural damage. Better to spend a little extra money ahead of time than to find out later that your used vehicle is a clunker.
Take the car out for a rigorous test drive, including driving it in busy traffic, up and down steep hills, on the highway, and along winding roads. This is your hard-earned money you’re going to be spending on the vehicle, and you don’t want something you can only drive when the weather’s nice or on a trip that’s less than 30 miles. Check out the maintenance record on the car. If you notice that it’s been in for serious repairs, or has had several estimates for expensive repairs, such as transmission work or head gasket repairs that the current owner couldn’t afford to fix, move along.
Used Cars to Buy and Sell advice
Although dealerships now prefer terms like “selling pre-owned” rather than used, keep in mind that the average pre-owned automobile has probably had three owners. With many car search and car safety inspection services, you can, however, find out information, or even receive an inspection report about a vehicle before you pay one red cent. Never buy a car where the VIN number has been partially scraped away. And don’t forget, dealerships can’t deny you the right to see the car inspection report on the car.
Cash For Vehicles in Gauteng , Pretoria , Midrand, Jhb, Roodepoort, South Africa, Fourways , Sandton, Johannesburg , Centurion, RandburgMy beloved Subaru Outlook
I hope this story serves as a warning to others to be extra vigilant when selling things online. If it prevents even one person from being sucked in, then it will have been worth writing.
I am currently trying to sell my car on TradeMe (for those outside NZ, this is the top online auctions site in the country, similar to eBay).
Within an hour of listing I received a text (from number 538 — itself a little suspicious)…“Hello, i am texting to know if your vehicle on trademe is still for sale, plz email email@example.com as this is urgent”
Upon sending an email to the email address I received the following response…Thanks for responding, My name is Susan Allan. i want you to get back to me with its current condition,more pictures and your final price as i am looking for a decent bargain. I am an officer with the Royal New Zealand Navy camped in uae and due to the nature of my work, phone use is restricted,reason why Im contacting you with internet messaging. Arrangements will be made to have this picked up from you by a local dubai shipper after payment and all necessary registration/paperwork will be handled as well before pick up.Regards
After I replied with more details and photos, I got the following…Ok,i just wanted to make sure nothing has been left out
Thanks for the information, it was really of immense help
i am happy to purchase for my son at your asking price and do you have a PayPal account,as i will be paying with PayPal for our own protection,PayPal act as a neutral third party. it is safe,secure and reliable, and also due to the fact that i am currently offshore and i won’t definitely be able to make it to the bank to wires money across to you.It is what safe and convenient for me. plz do check it out.
The language used in this email seemed a little strange - a bit formal for a kiwi, but I didn’t really think too much of it at the time. I responded once again that I already had a Paypal account and payment via this method would be fine (I also increased the price of the car by $300 to account for the PayPal transaction fees). She replied asking me to create an invoice in PayPal requesting payment. After confirmation I had done this, I then received the following reply…
“ok yes i found the invoice it was sitting in my spam but How do i know you will not run off with my money after the money has been first credited into your account cause we are dealing with a lot of money here and i cannot afford to lose my money just because i want to get a vehicle for my son. So can i trust you ? can you give me your word that everything will be fine. i am sorry if i am a little rude here, hope you can understand my point of view
attached is my proof of identification”
I responded with a photo of my own Driver’s Licence and a link to my LinkedIn profile.
The next response was as follows…have remitted payment to you via paypal and I also paid paypalcharges to ensure you get your full payment. the shipping address isregistered with paypal and they should send it to you in the paymentnotification. please check your e-mail for confirmation of payment, somake sure you check your inbox message folder and junk folder for theconfirmation email as the money has been completely deducted from my paypal accountAccording to paypal’s instructions, I have added extra $2200.00 NZD to take care of the shipping bills( i had to do that because you are the one to pay the shipper since you are the seller and they are going to pick the item up from you), so email back immediately you receive the confirmation and kindly make sure you read thoroughly through the payment confirmation messages as they should contain guidelines on how to clear your funds into your account immediately.
Again I thought the language a little strange, as was the fact I had to pay for the shipping. However the next two emails really got the alarm bells ringing. They looked genuine (I’ve put them in as images so you get an idea of how good they looked), but what they wanted of me was very suspicious. The From address ‘firstname.lastname@example.org’ was also a red flag…
After replying to the email as instructed, I got the following…
At this point, I figured out that this was most likely a scam, and after doing a quick google search, I found this…Malaysian Trademe/Paypal Car Scam - Page 12 - ScamBusters New Zealand
With all these scams you should remember that it is virtually impossible to export a New Zealand car to other countries…www.scambusters.co.nz
I have responded to ‘Susan Allan’ asking for further proof of identity, local contact details for the shipping company and a call via Skype. I don’t really expect a reply but will post an update here if I do.
It is obvious that these scammers have been going for a while and have been refining their craft. If you are ever contacted by someone overseas interested in buying your car, be very suspicious, no matter how genuine they seem.
How to get the best cash for junk cars in Kansas City
When you don’t really need to drive all that much
As a designated Car Friend, people often ask me: Hey, James. Should I pick up a reasonably-priced used car and drive to the beach and sometimes suburban grocery stores? The answer to this question, of course, is yes, but that answer invites a much lengthier interrogation: What cars should I look at? What’s a good budget? Are private sellers trustworthy? In the spirit of that discussion, what follows is a comprehensive guide to buying cars for people who live somewhere that ensures they don’t really need a car, but maybe it’s nice to have.
It’s a good era to be shopping for used cars. Assuming you don’t rely on your car for daily transportation, it’s possible to get a perfectly decent vehicle for a small investment. Modern autos last far longer than whips of previous generations, and even a car fifteen years old in 2016 ought to feature a solid slate of creature comforts and safety features: power windows, AC, airbags, ABS, etc. The slings and arrows of depreciation ensure that used cars of a certain era trade hands at perhaps 10 or 20 percent of their cost new. What’s more, a savvy motorist can drive one of these used cars for several years, maintain it a bit, then sell it at nearly the same price. There’s a baseline where depreciation slows to a crawl.
You ought to plan on laying out at least $2,500 for a reliable set of wheels. It’s unlikely an example much under that price point will have many years of life left in it. Outliers exist, of course, but the risk somewhat overshadows the reward. On the other end of the spectrum, the once-a-week driver probably doesn’t need to spend more than $5,000. Between those points is the sweet spot for value and reliability.
What types of car am I looking for?
Japanese manufacturers tend to produce the most reliable cars. In the used-car bargain bin, Hondas and Toyotas are the longest lived, and also hold their value a bit better than the competition. Lexuses and Acuras are often perfectly affordable — these are just Toyotas and Hondas by another name. Nissans and Subarus are safe bets, too. Older cars from European makes are hit or miss. Plenty of folks drive their BMWs and Mercedes into the ground without experiencing a major repair bill, but frequent maintenance is critical for more complex, luxurious cars. An aging sports sedan with power seats, air-adjusted suspension and dual climate zones has a lot more components capable of breaking down. Low-end Euros aren’t safe either: elderly VWs in particular should be banished from your search.
American cars tend to be the least expensive on the lot, for good reason. There are certain models from Ford, Chevrolet, Dodge, and their sibling brands that are screwed together well (particularly trucks) but many of these products are real duds. Avoid anything that looks like it belongs at a rental counter in LAX circa 2005.
For a consumer in the market for a “regular” car, boring old sedans and compact cars deliver the best value. Trucks, sports cars, Jeeps, etc., are valued by enthusiast communities and command a premium compared to more sedate transportation.
What to look for in a used car ad?
Cliché, but true: the best marketplace to seek a used car is the same venue you used to sell your couch and find a Pokemon trainer: Craigslist. Certain regions have good local-paper classifieds, too, but Craigslist — temple of retro web design — always delivers.
Lots of people fear buying a used car from a private seller, but I prefer to do business with an individual. Dealers don’t know much about the history of their inventory, while a private seller can share the life story of their car. Private sellers are by and large honest, if occasionally less informed than automotive experts. Used car dealers specializing in the cheapest cars, by contrast, are often true bottom-feeders — the fount from which car sales stereotypes emerged. There are reputable used car outlets, but be on guard for a fly-by-night operation.Here’s an ad that appears to have nothing to hide
In evaluating ads, you’re looking for two things: maintenance history and plenty of clear photos. The more photos, the more likely the car is in good condition. Cars that invite close inspection should be advertised with shots taken from a variety of angles, showing the inside and under the hood. Check that doors all sit level, and that the color of each panel matches exactly — uneven body fit or paint can indicate a prior wreck. Look closely for signs of rust. Rust is the worst, usually a terminal condition, and especially a concern when shopping in the snowy, salty states of the northeast or Midwest.
The more maintenance an owner can demonstrate they’ve performed, the longer their car is likely to last, and the less money you’ll have to put into it. Ask about wear items that need to be regularly replaced: tires, brakes, battery. The longer a car has been with a seller, the more likely it’s been well looked-after. Mileage isn’t an urgent concern — it’s better to buy a thoroughly maintained car with higher miles than a low-mile example suffering from neglect.
Be aware there are certain big-ticket services all cars require as they age. Every 90k miles or so, most cars need to their timing belt and water pump replaced. This can be a costly pit stop, and skipping it is not wise. Cars over 100,000 miles often, but not always, require new exhausts, shocks, wheel bearing or axles — it’s a good sign if these repairs were repaired by the previous owner. If you happen to be shopping for a car with a manual transmission, the typical lifespan of a clutch is 100–150k, so the cost of a replacement should be factored into the purchase of a car that has traveled that range on its original equipment.
I’m going out to see a used car — how do I inspect it?
So, you found a promising lead and it’s time for an-person inspection. Ask the seller if they can avoid starting the car before your visit. Certain ailments are more noticeable on a cold start, so unscrupulous car dealers sometimes take the liberty of warming their goods up. When you get out to see the car, before you turn it on, conduct a walk-around. Do the panels fit tight?This is the kind of rust that can eat up a car — avoid it!
Is the paint color consistent all around? Is there any rust in the lower edges of the body. The tires should all match and show good depth. Make sure all the lights and signals work, then check that the engine is full of fluids: oil, coolant, power steering and transmission fluid. [note: definitely do NOT check coolant level on a hot engine!] While you’re under the hood, peep the sheet metal around the engine: does it look straight and original? Poke your head under the car and see if it appears to be leaving any puddles of oil or coolant from a fresh leak. If there’s water under the car and the AC was just running, don’t fret! That’s normal.
Assuming you made it this far, it’s time for a drive. Start the car up, listening for untoward noises like squealing belts or a rattling exhaust. Did the check engine light illuminate when the key was in “on” and go away after the engine was started? Test all the accessories: windows, AC, wipers, etc, and hit the open road. Leave the windows down to better hear any potential mechanical issues.
Once you’re on the open road, see how the car responds to changes in speed and RPMs. Does the engine sound smooth or does it stumble? Are gear shifts firm and quick? Are bumps absorbed with aplomb, or does the car feel like it’s too low or too bouncy? On a straight, flat, safe section of road, release the wheel and check that the car drives straight. Push the brakes: do they cause the car to pull to one side?
Once you’re satisfied your potential purchase drives the way it should, it’s time to make an offer and do some paperwork.
How much should I pay for this car?
Uncomfortable as it may be to haggle, negotiations are a fact of life in the used car game. Dealers and private sellers both set their asking price in anticipation of being knocked around a little bit. The typical wiggle room in a used car price is around 10 percent, but don’t let that stop you from bargaining your way to an even better price reduction.
Before you seal the deal, tell the seller that you’re ready to buy, but you’re concerned the asking price is just too high. Often, a seller will do some negotiating on your behalf, and throw out a slightly lower number. Whatever the response to your initial entreaty, don’t accept the quoted figure immediately. Instead, suggest a price twenty-five percent under the most recent offer. That’s an amount close enough to ask to demonstrate you’re serious, and it’s further than halfway under the typical negotiations (ten percent), stacking the deck slightly in your favor. There may be a little back and forth from here out, but stick to your guns. It’s very, very rare to meet a seller with no willingness to deal.
The voyage home
I prefer to bring my used car purchases home immediately after negotiations. I head to the bank and withdraw the full amount (this probably means a visit to a live teller, not the ATM) and fill out the paperwork with the seller on the spot. The seller needs to sign over the title (check that it is “clean,” i.e., not salvage or repair branded), and provide a signature on a bill of sale. The BOS is not a complicated document. In nearly any state, the DMV will accept a handwritten agreement that lists the car’s selling price, Vehicle Identification Number and the names and addresses of the buyer and seller. A couple oddball states like Pennsylvania require this documentation to be notarized—a quick visit to Google should clear up the rules in your state.
If you don’t plan to bring the car home the day you viewed it, leave a deposit (10 percent of the sale price, or $500, whichever is less) and write up an agreement to provide the remainder.
One final hurdle in the transaction process: physically getting the car home. Odds are that on the day of your purchase, you are not equipped with valid registration and license plates for the new car. The easiest solution: drive it home with the old license plates still on the car (they’re valid until the previous owner cancels the registration) and mail the plates back to the seller. If the previous owner balks at this plan, you could ask her to drive the car herself to your home, and then offer to ferry her back. If these options are both off the table, you’ll need to leave the car with the seller and head to the DMV to secure registration. After getting license plates at the DMV, you can return to the seller and drive off into the sunset 100 percent legit.
For most people, buying a used car is a rare occasion indeed, and it’s easy to feel intimidated by the process. Don’t sweat it. There are lots of great used cars out there, and a little bit of research and preparation will go a long way toward a successful purchase. You’re going to do great!
Midrand Cash For Vehicles
How did we sell cars before the Internet? Newspapers and word of mouth, that’s how. Can you imagine anything more labor intensive? But then science discovered the Internet, and with it Craigslist, and BAM! People had an easy way to clear out their garages.
Craigslist KC — Kansas City or commonly known as K.C is the largest city in the United States, So people are struggling to sell/buy things via online. There is one most popular classified site that helps people to sell/buy things via online. It’s Craigslist
Last year, a few of us at Hagerty bought some inexpensive modern classics for a video shoot — a 1985 Mazda RX-7, a 1975 Chevy El Camino and a 1972 VW Beetle. Once the shoot was wrapped, we soon discovered that we had to do something with the cars. Instead of selling them, like we should have done, we found a nice warm garage, parked them, and let them appreciate. Now they are worth tens of dollars more than they were a year ago, and the time has come to pass them along to the next stewards.
With three cars to sell and the vast power of science’s Craigslist on which to sell them, we decided to vary our approach with each car, much the way you see varied sales approaches on Craigslist itself. Generally, people try to offload their old cars in one of three ways:
- From a “Here’s the analysis, look at the facts, this is an investment” standpoint.
- From a “Look how funny I am and look how funny you could be too if you buy my car” standpoint.
- From an “I don’t care about this car enough to give it more than seven words of description” standpoint.
Based purely on the amount of effort we felt each car deserved, we assigned them each their own strategy.
Thus, the RX-7 ad is designed to appeal to the collector who just wants the facts, the hard data.
The El Camino, funny car that it is, was assigned the ironic approach.
And the Beetle, well, it’s a Beetle, everybody knows what it is, and what more is there to say, really?
All three cars were priced roughly the same, which is to say the $3,000–$4,000 entry-level collectible range. And each was photographed appropriately, though in the case of the Beetle, that simply means a couple blurry, partially obscured shots. The only thing left to do, then, is to sit back and see which approach garners the most interest. And whether we can actually sell these things….
Which car do you think will sell first? Tell us in the comments.
To save ourselves from repeating this process, for our next 3 Guys video project, we’ll be selling the cars at Auctions America’s Fall Auburn sale next month. Check out the preview video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYsLVJek9hs
More about Kansas city:
Likewise we can also buy/sell/find Craigslist kc cars, Craigslist kc personals, craigslist kc motorcycles, craigslist kc boats, craigslist Kansas city furniture, craigslist kc electronics, craigslist kc tickets, craigslist kc rvs and more too.
How To Sell A Car On Craigslist
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Some Essential Tips to Know Before Buying Used Cars for Sale
It is very important to be sure of your decision at first, for selling your car. Selling used cars have become easier now with options available online with no hassle at all. Just that, you may have to spend sometime in describing your car, getting the paper work done and acquiring the best bidder.
Know the true worth of your car
Your car has a depreciating value. With time, it’s value diminishes. The more your car travels, the more is the depreciation with diminishing value. A less sparely used car will have more price value with better resale value. This will make selling your used car easier at the perfect rates.
Many online websites allow you to post your car’s photograph with details and your expected resale value. These websites have thousands of customers browsing through them that helps you sell your used car easily.
It is very important to provide your detailslike name and contact details, to avoid any sort of miscommunication. An email address also may work. You may also provide your mobile number so the buyer they can reach you anytime.
Good paper work
Many legal formalities are involved for selling a used car. The documents that are needed to be filled and provided to the buyer are- Form 28: This is the application to the RTO for an NOC only applicable if the buyer’s residence is in the area of jurisdiction of another RTO, Form 29: for transfer of ownership of the car, Form 29: for transfer of ownership of the car, NOC from finance company if applicable, copy of the delivery note, original registration certificate, RTO tax certificate of the onetime tax paid when you bought the car, insurance policy, copy of the invoice of the car, Owner’s manual of the car, Service history of the car and duplicate keys.
Schedule a test drive
A test drive must be scheduled with the buyer to give him assurance of the quality of the car and that the price that he will be paying is worthy. A test drive should be done in a public place and in the presence of the owner to avoid any sort of mischief.
Closing the deal with the highest bidder
Many buyers may approach you looking at your advertisement either online or newspaper. You may negotiate to get the best bid.